Residenzplatz
The complex of Baroque buildings at the centre of Salzburg exudes the ecclesiastical and temporal power of Salzburg’s archbishops, whose erstwhile living quarters, the Residenz (Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–4pm; €12, including access to the cathedral museums and organ gallery), dominates the west side of Residenzplatz. Take a self-guided audio-tour of the lavish state rooms, then head one floor up to the Residenzgalerie, whose collection includes a few interesting paintings, most notably Rembrandt’s small, almost sketch-like Old Woman Praying.
On the east side of Residenzplatz, accessed from Mozartplatz, is the Neue Residenz, built by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, and topped by the Glockenspiel, a seventeenth-century musical clock which chimes at 7am, 11am and 6pm. It now houses the excellent Salzburg Museum (Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; €8.50), which, as well as showing some of the archbishop’s lavish rooms, explores Salzburg’s history, its rediscovery by Romantic painters and the city’s tourist industry.
Schloss Hellbrunn and the Untersberg
The Italianate palace Schloss Hellbrunn (daily: April & Oct 9am–4.30pm; May, June & Sept 9am–5.30pm; July & Aug 9am–9pm, Wasserspiele only after 6pm; €12.50) on Salzburg’s southern fringe – 5km from the city centre – was built in the early seventeenth century by Salzburg’s decadent archbishop Marcus Sitticus as a place for entertaining. The main attraction is the gardens’ impressive array of fountains and watery gimmicks, or wasserspiele; guided tours take forty minutes, with the tour guide showing off all the tricks and hidden fountains, including an elaborate, water-powered mechanical theatre (prepare to be splashed). The palace itself features paintings of Sitticus’s unusual animal collection, and a lavishly frescoed festival hall and music room.
To get to Schloss Hellbrunn take bus #25 from the train station or Mirabellplatz (every 20–30min). This bus continues to the village of St Leonhard, 7km further south, where a cable car (March–June & Oct–Nov 8.30am–4.30pm; July–Sept 8.30am–5pm; Dec–Feb 9am–3.30pm; return €23) climbs the 1853m Untersberg for impressive views of Salzburg to the north and the Alps to the south.
Schloss Mirabell
Across the river from the Altstadt, Schloss Mirabell on Mirabellplatz stands on the site of a palace built by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich for his mistress Salome, with whom the energetic prelate was rumoured to have sired a dozen children. Familiar from The Sound of Music, the palace’s ornate gardens offer a popular view back across the city.
The Sound of Music
Salzburg wastes no time cashing in on its connection with the legendary singing Von Trapp family, immortalized in the movie The Sound of Music. From its kiosk on Mirabellplatz, Panorama Tours (T06 628 83 21 10) runs The Original Sound of Music Tour (daily 9.15am & 2pm; 4hr; €42) to the key film locations, such as Hellsbrun Palace and Mondsee Cathedral – they play the soundtrack and you’re encouraged to sing along.