Good options for B&B include St Josephs (t 095/35865, w; €61–90/£41–60), a cosy and welcoming en-suite place with great breakfasts in the heart of the village. Six kilometres northeast on the R341 towards the N59 is the upmarket Angler’s Return (t 095/31091, w; €91–120/£61–80), a tranquil and stylish 1820s sporting lodge set in pretty gardens. There are several campsites to the west of Roundstone, including the well-equipped Gurteen Bay Caravan Site beside the beach of the same name (t 095/35882, w; self-catering apartments, cabins and caravans available).

A couple of exceptional hotels enliven the harsh landscape to the northeast of Roundstone. Set on its own fishing river and lake towards the N59, eighteenth-century Ballynahinch Castle was once the home of Richard Martin – aka Humanity Dick – the animal-rights campaigner and co-founder of the RSPCA in 1824, and later of cricketing maharaja, Ranjitsinhji. It’s now a grand, romantic luxury hotel in a glorious estate setting, with an excellent restaurant and a cosy fisherman’s bar where good food is also available; activities include tennis, cycling and guided walks (t 095/31006, w; various packages and offers available; €201–250/£141–170). Near the village of Cashel, about a fifteen-minute drive round the bay from Roundstone, Cashel House Hotel (t 095/31001, w; closed Dec; €201–250/£141–170), is an elegant country house set in varied and beautiful gardens.

The best place to eat and drink in Roundstone is lively, sociable O’Dowd’s (t 095/35809), which serves excellent bar food; attached to the pub is a fine evening-time restaurant and O’Dowd’s Café, offering good coffee, salads, pizzas, seafood chowder and internet access. Ferron’s Supermarket contains a post office and ATM. The village hosts a small arts festival in late June or early July (w, a hooker regatta in July and Summerfest in mid-August (w

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