Back on Route 85, Tjörnes’ northern tip is marked by the Voladalstorfa lighthouse, past which there’s a roadside viewpoint with vistas out over the staggeringly blue waters of Öxarfjörður to Kópasker. Puffins and fulmars nest on the grass-topped cliffs right beside the viewpoint; on a clear day it’s possible to pick out a very remote Grímsey to the northwest, and Mánárayjar, a couple of closer volcanic islets that haven’t experienced any stirrings for over a century.

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