It’s better to lodge in the centre than venture out to rue Charles-Domercq and cours de la Marne, rife with grimy one- and two-star hotels. Rooms aren’t hard to come by except during the week of the Vinexpo trade fair (in odd-numbered years) and Fête du Vin (in even-numbered years) in June, when Bordeaux is packed to the gunnels.

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