The principal aid to orientation in Lefkosia is the Venetian walls – an aerial view of the city shows their absolutely regular star or snowflake shape punctuated by eleven bastions. What it doesn’t show is the eyesore of the Buffer Zone – dilapidated buildings with boarded-up windows, barricaded streets, weeds growing everywhere – that separates South Lefkosia from the Turkish-occupied north. Taking the whole of the walled city, the Green Line cuts it into two roughly equal parts. As a general rule of thumb, most of the old city lies within the walls, which remain relatively complete, and most of the modern sprawl created by the city’s expansion during British rule and then after independence lies outside. The scale of the city is such that you don’t need to worry about getting around – it’s easily walkable, apart from a couple of suburban sights.

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