Travelling southeast from Tetouan, the coastline almost immediately changes and you come under the shadow of the Rif. The road (N16, formerly S608) continues to follow the coast while also hugging the foothills of the Rif; it’s a stunning drive made all the more pleasurable by recent roadworks

Quieter than the more popular beach towns closer to Tetouan, Oued Laou is named after the River Laou that reaches the ocean here from its source in the Rif mountains near Chefchaouen. It’s not an especially pretty place – Riffian villages tend to look spread out and lack any core – but it has a near-deserted beach, which extends for miles on each side, particularly to the southeast, where the river has created a wide, fertile bay down to Kâaseras, 8km distant. There’s not much to do other than relax, read, watch the fishermen hauling in their nets, and swim – not an altogether terrible itinerary. On Saturdays, there is a souk, held 3km inland from Oued Laou, which draws villagers from all over the valley.

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