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The charming and picturesque – if slightly tatty – fishing village of HORCÓN, about 30km north of Concón, is a chaotic tumble of houses straggling down the hill to a rocky bay. (En route, you’ll pass Quintero, a scruffy, forbidding town with filthy beaches, to be avoided at all costs.) In the summer, Horcón is taken over by artisans on the beach selling jewellery made from seashells and unfeasible numbers of young Chileans who come to chill out for the weekend; this is the hippy alternative to Reñaca.

The beach in front of the village is crowded and uninviting, but a short walk up the main street and then along Avenida Cau-Cau takes you down a steep, rickety staircase to the remote Playa Cau-Cau, a pleasantly sheltered beach surrounded by wooded hills, though a hideous condo mars the beauty of the area. An hour’s walk along the beach north towards Maitencillo takes you to Playa Luna, a nudist beach.

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