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Although less well known than Manaus, BELÉM, the only city in the Amazon that is truly old, has much more to offer: an unspoilt colonial centre, one of Brazil’s most distinctive cuisines, a stunning collection of architectural survivals from the rubber boom and, to cap it all, an urban revitalization over the last decade that has seen new parks, imaginatively restored historic buildings and leisure complexes transform its centre and riverfront into easily the most attractive city for tourism in the Amazon.

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