The Iowa Welcome Center at 300 Main St (daily 9am–5pm; t 1-800/798-8844, w is the best place to pick up information on Dubuque. As for places to stay, try the homey Redstone Inn & Suites, 504 Bluff St (t 563/582-1894, w; $61–100), a mansion constructed by early Dubuque benefactor A.A. Cooper and now a fifteen-room B&B. The 150-year-old, freshly restored Hotel Julien, 200 Main St (t 1-800/798-7098, w; $101–130), was once owned by mobster Al Capone; he used his personal suite as his safe house when trouble was brewing in Chicago. Local camping is available at Miller Riverview Park, set in the middle of the Mississippi River northeast of downtown (t 563/589-4238; $10 per tent).

For food, head to The Bank Bar & Grille, 342 Main St (t 563/584-1729) for hearty meat and fish fare, or quieter Café Manna Java at 269 Main St (t 563/588-3105) for good salads and sandwiches. If you’re in the mood for a drink, head downstairs to the subterranean, unsigned Busted Lift at 180 Main St for local colour and fun bar games.

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