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Get here from Anchorage by train (a lovely journey; $75 one-way, $119 return; t 1-800/544-0552) or Seward Bus Lines (t 907/224-3608; $50 one-way). Seward’s two hubs of activity, the small boat harbour and downtown, are joined by the mile-long Fourth Avenue, while the main visitor centre is inconveniently situated at Mile 2 Seward Hwy (summer daily 8am–6pm; t 907/224-8051, w A shuttle bus (t 907/224-5569; $10 return) runs hourly from the small boat harbour to Exit Glacier.

For budget accommodation downtown, go to the slightly cramped Moby Dick Hostel, 432 3rd Ave (mid-April to Sept; t 907/224-7072, w; $61–80) with bunks ($20), kitchen and small private rooms, or Murphy’s Motel, 911 Fourth Ave (t 1-800/886-8191, w; $101–200), near the small boat harbour. Alternatively, head out to the lovely Alaska’s Treehouse (t 907/224-3867, w; $81–100) a large timber house with a hot tub on the deck in the forest seven miles north on the Seward Highway (take Timber Lane Drive then Forest Rd). Campers can almost fish from their tent at the excellent Waterfront Park (mid-April to Sept; tents $10, RVs $15–30), downtown off Ballaine Boulevard.

Food in Seward is fairly reasonably priced: for good coffee or light meals, head to Resurrect Art, 320 3rd Ave, a converted church with board games, wi-fi, art and events. For fine dining (mains around $25), try the Resurrection Roadhouse, Mile 0.5 Exit Glacier Rd (t 907/224-716, w For a good range of beers, stop at the boisterous Yukon Bar, 201 4th Ave at Washington Street, with live music in summer, usually with a set or two from Kenai legend Hobo Jim on Sunday.

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