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Perched on the edge of the Bahía de Todos Santos, 100km south of Tijuana, the attractive port town of ENSENADA is far calmer, cheaper and smaller than its northern rival, making for an inviting pit-stop and jumping-off point for the wineries to the east. Like Tijuana, Ensenada is a relatively recent creation by Mexican standards, despite being officially “founded” (ie discovered by the Spanish) in 1542; nothing much happened until 1870, when gold was discovered in nearby Real de Castillo. Ensenada was gradually developed as a port, the modern town effectively planned and developed by American investor George H. Sisson and architect Richard Stephens, with most work undertaken 1887 to 1891.

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