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The Humber empties into the Bay of Islands, a mesmerizing blend of mountain-topped islands and soaring fjords. To best appreciate the bay and the isolated inlets to the north, contact True North Tours (w truenorthtours.ca). Tony & Joan Oxford run 2hr 30min tours along Middle and Goose Arms from Cox’s Cove (at the end of Rte-440, 40km from Corner Brook), passing resettled villages, a Dorset Paleo-eskimo site and plenty of wildlife, whales, ospreys and bald eagles among them. During the journey they regale their passengers with folk songs and stories of Newfoundland history – you might also catch a cod or two. Tours run daily July–Sept ($40).

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