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Muscat has far and away the best selection of places to eat in the country, albeit relatively modest compared to other capital cities in the region. There’s a good spread of upmarket restaurants, mostly based within the various hotels in the city’s more modern districts around Qurum. More down-at-heel options can be found in the older parts of the city: Ruwi has the best range of cheap curry houses alongside slightly fancier restaurants, while Muttrah has the most enjoyable traditional Arabian shwarma cafés.

Muscat offers a rare chance to sample traditional Omani food at places like Kargeen, Ubhar or Bin Ateeq; you’ll also do well for seafood, most of which comes fresh out of the local market at Muttrah. There’s also a glut of good Indian restaurants thanks to the city’s sizeable subcontinental population, along with a passable assortment of Italian, Chinese and Thai establishments, plus a couple of Iranian and Moroccan joints. Most restaurants close from 3–7pm. All the venues listed below are open daily for lunch and dinner unless otherwise stated; phone numbers are listed for establishments where it’s a good idea to book ahead.

For restaurant reviews whttp://www.muscatdeli.blogspot.com has some excellent in-depth critiques of various places around the city, plus details of forthcoming culinary events.

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