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Amman’s hammam

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Hammams (Turkish baths) are common in Cairo, Damascus and many other Middle Eastern and North African cities, elegant and civilized places to steam the city dust out of your pores. Amman is an exception: its short recent history means that it doesn’t share the centuries-old urban traditions of its neighbours. There is, for all intents and purposes, only one hammam in the city, the modern Al Pasha Turkish Bath.

Al Pasha Turkish Bath

Mahmoud Taha Street, opposite the Ahlia girls’ school; it’s the fifth turn on the right coming from 1st Circle along Rainbow Street t 06 463 3002, w pashaturkishbath.com. Beautifully designed in traditional style, the hammam offers 2hr of soaking, scrubbing, lathering and olive-oil massaging with professional male or female therapists for JD25. There are men-only hours, women-only hours and you can book ahead as a mixed group or a couple; call for details. Afterwards, don’t miss out on herbal tea and/or a light meal of mezze in the beautiful garden courtyard – there are few more pleasant retreats in the city centre. Daily 10am–midnight.

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