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The mixed dockland area of Tophane is named after the Imperial Armoury – now housing a university – that churned out cannonballs for the Ottoman war machine. It’s dotted with venerable Ottoman buildings, most notably the Kılıç Paşa Camii, dating from 1780, and the more recent Nusretiye Camii (1822), both recently restored. It’s also well known for its large congregation of nargile (water-pipe) cafés.

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