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The mines, ugly brooding reminders of Kiruna’s prosperity, still dominate the town, much more depressingly so than in Gällivare; despite its new central buildings and open parks, Kiruna retains a grubby industrial feel. The tourist office arranges guided tours around the mines, on which visitors are bussed down into the InfoMine, a closed-off section of the rabbit warren of tunnels comprising a working mine. Inside you’ll see facilities such as petrol stations and a workers’ canteen, and mining paraphernalia, including trains for transporting ore and equipment, and mills for crushing the ore-bearing rock.

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