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An hour and a half by Inlandsbanan and 89km north of Sorsele, ARVIDSJAUR was for centuries where the region’s Sámi gathered to trade and debate. Their presence was of interest to Protestant missionaries, who established the first church here in 1606. The success of this Swedish settlement was secured when silver was discovered in the nearby mountains, and the town flourished as a staging point and supply depot. While these developments unfolded, the Sámi continued to assemble on market days and during religious festivals. At the end of the eighteenth century, they built their own church town of simple wooden huts. Today, out of a total population of five thousand, there are still twenty Sámi families in Arvisdjaur who make their living from reindeer husbandry, and the town is a good place to get a real hands-on experience of Sámi life.

Arvidsjaur is not one of Sweden’s more attractive towns – its streets of drab houses strung out either side of the main drag lined with a dozen or so shops make a pretty depressing impression on any first-time visitor. However, although the modern town is decidedly unappealing, it hides one of northern Sweden’s top attractions in the traditional Sámi village of Lappstaden.

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