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Montalegre is one of the Serra do Barroso settlements where you’ll come across the so-called Vinhos dos MortosWines of the Dead; try asking in local bars and restaurants. This is basically wine that matures in bottles buried underground, a practice that originated in 1809 when villagers, keen to protect their wine stocks from the invading French hordes, hid their bottles. When they dug them up again they were delighted to find that the contents tasted considerably better.

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