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The old frontier fortress of MOGADOURO lies on the fringes of the Parque Natural do Douro Internacional. With the winding journey here from north or south half the attraction, it’s hard to escape the impression of a town caught between past and present, ready to embrace tourism but not quite sure what it has to offer. Its main sight is the restored keep of a twelfth-century castle, set on a hill with extensive views over a patchwork of tilled fields, traditional pigeon houses and an imposing grain elevator – as well as the municipal swimming pool and stadium and a spreading line of suburban development.

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