Some 10km west of Lagos lies BURGAU. The cobbled main street retains some charm, running right through the village and tumbling down past colourful fishing boats to a wide sweep of sand, backed by crumbling cliffs. In July and August the village is somewhat mobbed, but at other times it retains a distinct character, with locals grilling fish on tiny grills outside their homes. Unless you’re here on a pre-booked holiday, you’ll find it tough to locate accommodation in summer, though signs scattered around the village advertise rooms in private houses.

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