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BELLUNO was once a strategically important ally of Venice, and today is the capital of a province that extends mainly over the eastern Dolomites (covered in Chapter 5). Its position is Belluno’s main attraction, but the old centre calls for an hour or two’s exploration if you’re passing through. The hub of the modern town, and where you’ll find its most popular bars and cafés, is the wide Piazza dei Martiri.

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