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The serene, attractive backwater of BEVAGNA is quieter and less visited than Spello, with a windswept central square of stark perfection. Flanked by two of Umbria’s finest Romanesque churches – both untouched and creaking with age – the Piazza S. Silvestri dates from around the thirteenth century. The only exception is the fountain, which, while blending perfectly, was installed in 1889. Look out particularly for the surreal gargoyles over the doorway of the larger church, San Michele.

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