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CAMPOBASSO, Molise’s regional capital, is a modern town whose most notable attraction is the Museo Sannitico, with statues and a scattering of archeological finds from the area, most notably the haunting contents of a Longobard tomb, a warrior buried alongside his horse. Steep alleys of the old upper town lead up to a couple of Romanesque churches – San Bartolomeo, which has eerily contorted figures carved around its main door, and San Giorgio, whose entrance displays a dragon surrounded by stylized flowers. At the top of the hill are a monastery and sixteenth-century castle, from which there is a panorama over the environs and the historic centre’s borgo antico below.

If you happen to be around sixty days after Easter, don’t miss the town’s spectacular Corpus Domini Sagra dei Misteri procession, in which citizens are dressed as saints, angels and devils, inserted into fantastic contraptions and transported, seemingly suspended in mid-air, through the streets.

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