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From Dalvík, Route 82 winds its way north for 17km to the fishing village of ÓLAFSFJÖRÐUR, clinging all the way to the steep slopes of the mountains that plunge into the steely waters of Eyjafjörður, and with superb views of the snowy peaks of the uninhabited Látraströnd coastline on the opposite shore. On a clear day it’s easily possible to spot Grímsey island, northeast of the fjord’s mouth. The road enters Ólafsfjörður by means of a single-lane, claustrophobic, 3.4km tunnel through the Ólafsfjarðarmúli headland.

Although the drive to Ólafsfjörður and its setting are breathtaking, the village, unfortunately, isn’t: this is an unattractive, workaday place of a thousand people, set behind the working harbour on Sjávargata, one block northeast of the main road, Aðalgata. There’s little here to detain you other than the taxidermist’s dream, the well-stocked Náttúrugripasafn, and the chance to go whale watching.