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A half-hour walk – or five-minute drive – uphill from the Visitor Centre onto the plateau brings you to Svartifoss, the 20m-high Black Falls. Though the curtain isn’t especially high or broad, it drops to a small plunge pool over an impressive amphitheatre of dark, underhanging hexagonal basalt columns – natural formations which inspired the architecture of Reykjavík’s National Theatre. Many of the park’s hiking trails begin at the falls.