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One of Skaftafell’s shortest walks runs from the Visitor Centre to the front of Skaftafellsjökull itself, an easy thirty minutes through low scrub around the base of yellow cliffs. The woods end at a pool and stream formed from glacial meltwater, beyond which stretch ice-shattered shingle and the glacier’s 4m-high front, streaked with mud and grit and surprisingly unattractive. Look seawards to appreciate how much the glacier has retreated in recent times, leaving behind gravel hillocks known as moraines. Don’t climb onto the glacier: crevasses and general instability make this extremely dangerous.