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Tours from Höfn, offered by Vatnajökull Travel (t894 1616, wvatnajokull.is) and Glacier Jeeps (t478 1000, wglacierjeeps.is), focus on trips to one of the nearby glaciers descending Vatnajökull. Base camp is the snowline at Jöklasel hut, some 45km west of town along the Ringroad and then 16km up the four-wheel-drive-only Route F985. From here you mount a skidoo and drive out onto the glacier, tearing across a frozen, empty horizon at upwards of 40km an hour. You’ll reach the top of Skálafellsjökull and at least get an idea of Vatnajökull’s extent; the usual destination is Brókarbotnstindur, a sharp-edged nunatak with great views west across a deep valley to more tall peaks and ice. Warm clothing, crash helmet and full instruction are provided (bringing sunglasses is a good idea), but come a month either side of the main season unless you want to share a skidoo – in July and August they have hundreds of people a day up here. One hour on a skidoo costs 17,000kr, two hours 33,000kr; pickup from the Ringroad is extra.

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