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To the east of St Stephen’s basilica, Andrássy Út runs dead straight for 2.5km, a wide avenue lined with grand if sometimes tumbledown buildings. Look out for the magnificent Opera House at no. 22. At no. 60, out east towards Hosök tere, is the House of Terror. Once the headquarters of the fascist Arrow Cross and later of the Communist secret police (the ÁVO), the House of Terror is now a hard-hitting museum to the “dual terror” of Fascism and Communism. Original footage, photographs and interviews with survivors are powerfully used to tell the story of the twin tyrannies that Hungary suffered in the twentieth century. Not to be missed.

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