Sitting in the Vallée de Tech, Céret is a delightful place, with a wonderfully shady old town overhung by huge plane trees; the central streets are narrow and winding, opening onto small squares like Plaça de Nou Reigs (“Nine Spouts” in Catalan), named after its central fountain; on avenue d’Espagne, two remnants of the medieval walls, the Porte de France and Porte d’Espagne, are visible. Céret is also known for its cherries from the surrounding orchards (June festival), plus July corridas (bullfights) and Pamplona-style running of bulls. Céret’s main sight, however, is the remarkable Musée d’Art Moderne ( Between about 1910 and 1935, Céret’s charms – coupled with the residence here of the Catalan artist and sculptor Manolo – drew a number of avant-garde artists to the town, including Matisse and Picasso, who personally dedicated a number of pictures to the museum. The holdings are too extensive to mount everything at once, but there are works on show by Chagall, Miró, Pignon, Picasso and Dufy, among others.

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