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Nørrebro, an edgy area northwest across the canal from Indre By, is crammed with some of Copenhagen’s best cafés, bars and clubs, centred on Sankt Hans Torv. Caution is advised, particularly at night: but it’s home to most of Denmark’s most happening hangouts and the resplendent Assistens Kirkegård, a tranquil cemetery which locals use as a park in summer, and that has Hans Christian Andersen among its permanent residents.

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