Our intrepid author has visited every corner of Cyprus, north and south, to bring you some unique travelling experiences. These are some of his personal favourites. Spectacular ruins On headlands high above the azure Mediterranean, the Palace of Vouni in the north and Ancient Kourion in the south take some beating. Unexpected pleasures Pafos Zoo is a delight even if you don’t normally like zoos, as are the naive sculptures and paintings of Costas Argyrou in the village of Mazotos. Don’t miss, also, the quirky folk museums housed in many Cypriot villages: two of the best are to be found in Agia Varvara, south of Lefkosia, and Steni, south of Polis. Waterfall walk The Kaledonia Trail in the lofty Troodos Mountains takes you to the highest waterfall on the island – a welcome escape from the heat. Castle heaven Though it lacks the sheer wow factor (and crowds) of St Hilarion, little-visited Buffavento Castle can’t be beaten for atmosphere. Marvellous marinas Small boat harbours, often hosting a colourful collection of fishing vessels and lined with seafood restaurants are one of the highlights of the island. Try low-key Lakki or picturesque Potamos Liopetriou. People-watching Cyprus is a great place for sipping a frappe (iced coffee) and watching the world go by. Try Gazimağusa’s central square, Lemesos’s newly remodelled town centre, the cafés around stunning Bellapais Abbey, or Lefkosa’s renovated Buyuk Han. Sweet treats Cypriots have a notoriously sweet tooth – try the local version of Turkish Delight, loukoumia, on sale in Geroskipou, unbeatable ice cream at McKenzie Beach in Larnaka or heavenly baklava at Petek in Gazimağusa.