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The former fishing village of JELSA sits prettily by a wooded bay 10km east of Stari Grad. There are large package hotels on either side of the bay, but the place retains a relatively laid-back feel. Tucked away behind a nineteenth-century waterfront, the old quarter is a maze of ancient alleys and lanes. East of Jelsa on the road to Sućuraj are a sequence of pleasant coves, most popular of which is Grebišće, 4km out of town.