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Just over 11km south of Humacao lies the high-end “club community” of PALMAS DEL MAR (w http://www.palmasdelmar.com), a 2700-acre Neverland of landscaped putting greens, pristine condos, country clubs and 9km of beaches. More like an affluent suburb of southern Florida than Puerto Rico, it’s nevertheless one of the best places to go horseriding on the island and the local dive and boat operators tend to be less swamped than their Fajardo rivals.

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