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Some 7km west of San Antonio, towards the village of Santa Cruz, which is served by four weekly buses, the ruins of Uxbenka, a small Maya site, are superbly positioned on an exposed hilltop with great views towards the coast. As you climb the hill before the village you’ll be able to make out the shape of two tree-covered mounds and a plaza, and there are several stelae protected by thatched shelters.

If you do make it out here you can enjoy some wonderful waterfalls within easy reach of the road. Between Santa Cruz and Santa Elena, the Rio Blanco Falls tumble over a rocky ledge into a deep pool, and at Pueblo Viejo, 7km further on, an impressive series of cascades provides a spectacular sight. Trucks and buses continue 13km further west to Jalacte, at the Guatemalan border, used regularly as a crossing point by nationals of both countries, though it’s not currently a legal entry or exit point for tourists.