St Kilda’s most famous icon, Luna Park is located on the Esplanade, entered through the huge, laughing clown’s face of “Mr Moon”. Despite a couple of new attractions, there’s nothing very high-tech about this 1912 amusement park: the Scenic Railway – the world’s oldest operating roller-coaster runs along wooden trestles and the Ghost Train wouldn’t spook a toddler – but then that’s half the fun. The rides are pricey, but wandering around is free.

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