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Although Donghae (동해) is the largest city in the area after Gangneung, it’s a little too cumbersome to be of much interest to travellers, other than those heading to the stunning East Sea island of Ulleungdo, to which daily ferries run from March to October from a port next to Mukho train station. However, the beaches and caves of Donghae are well and truly trumped by more impressive versions around the smaller and more manageable town of SAMCHEOK (삼척), just to the south, which makes a better base – far easier to navigate, and also close to interesting sights such as Penis Park, several secluded beaches and the gigantic cave of Hwanseondonggul.

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