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Three hours by road and 89km from Cebu City, on the southwestern flank of Cebu Island, lies the once drowsy coastal town of MOALBOAL, now a boozy hangout for travellers and scuba divers. Sun-worshippers looking for a Boracay-style sandy beach will be disappointed – there isn’t one. If being on the beach is top of your list, head 8km along the coast to White Beach, an attractive strip of sand with several mid-range resorts. In Moalboal, the shoreline is a little rocky in places and not generally suitable for recreational swimming. Moalboal makes up for this in other ways, with a great range of cheap accommodation, a marvellous view of the sunset over distant Negros, and some good discounts on diving and rooms. Besides diving, the jagged limestone peaks and lush river valleys of Cebu’s central mountains offer canyoning, hiking, kayaking, mountain biking and horseriding all within easy reach of Moalboal.