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On the north coast of Flores, roughly equidistant between Ende and Larantuka, Maumere was once the tourism centre of the island and its best diving resort. In 1992, a devastating earthquake and tsunami destroyed most of the town, as well as the coral, though this is slowly recovering. Improved transport links and regular air services are steadily making it one of the main stops on trips around Nusa Tenggara; from here, you can organize tours that take in all of Flores’s attractions. Maumere is the capital of the Sikka district, especially renowned for its weaving, which incorporates maroon, white and blue geometric patterns in horizontal rows on a black or dark-blue background.

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