Most restaurants are to be found in hotels, but traditional Sikkimese food is rather rarer than dhal bhat due to the strong Bengali presence. Upper Pelling has several cafés, some serving south Indian food while one of the best restaurant bars is Taatopaani at the Hotel Chiminda in Middle Pelling, where, along with a selection of drinks, mocktails and cocktails, the thali is good value (Rs125). Stock up at the Lotus Bakery near Pemayangtse where a small selection of croissants, breads and cakes go to support the children’s charity. The best travellers’ restaurants are in the hotels Garuda and Kabur. Pelling is a good place to sample a tomba (warm millet beer); it’s best in Sikkimese-run hotels like Phamrong and Garuda.

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