Milk-based sweets such as the small and dry sandesh are a Bengali speciality. Though the white rosogulla, the brown (deep-fried) pantua and the distinctive black kalojam, all in syrup, are found elsewhere in north India, the best examples are made in Kolkata. Others worth trying are lal doi – a delicious red steamed yoghurt made with jaggery – or white mishti doi, yoghurt made with sugar. Sweetshops serve savoury snacks in the afternoons such as deep-fried pastry strips called nimki (literally “salty”); shingara, a delicate Bengali samosa; and dalpuri, paratha-like bread made with lentils.

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