Little Andaman is the furthest point south in the archipelago that foreigners can travel to on their tourist permit. Most of the island has been set aside as a tribal reserve for the Onge and is thus off-limits. It was also the only island open to foreigners to sustain extensive damage in the 2004 tsunami, but although a number of buildings were destroyed, and sixty-four people died, Little Andaman has recovered well. Very few tourists ever make it down here, however. Daily boats from Port Blair arrive at Hut Bay, the faster ones making the voyage in under six hours. The main settlement, INDIRA BAZAAR, is two kilometres north.

Hut Bay curves gradually round in a majestic eight-kilometre sweep, and the quality of the sand and beauty of the adjacent jungle increase the further you go. The top stretch is named Netaji Nagar after the village on the island’s only road, which runs behind it. En route, you can detour a kilometre inland at the huge signpost about 2.5km north of Indira Bazaar to see the White Surf Waterfalls. Made up of three 10- to 15m-high cascades, it’s a relaxing spot; you can clamber into the right-hand fall for a soothing shower – yet crocodiles are said to inhabit the surrounding streams. Short elephant rides are available for Rs50 per person at the entrance to the falls. Over the headland at the top of Hut Bay, twelve or so kilometres from the jetty, lies the smaller but equally picturesque crescent of Butler Bay. There’s not much to do here but swim, sunbathe or look around the slightly eerie remains of the government beach resort, which was swept away by the tsunami – that is unless you’ve brought your surfboard with you: Little Andaman has a cult reputation among surfers for having some of the best conditions anywhere in South Asia.

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