Kunming is stacked with good places to eat, from street stalls and Western cafés to smart restaurants offering local cuisine. Back lanes off Jinbi Lu hold some great cheap places where you can battle with the locals over grilled cheese, hotpots, fried snacks rolled in chilli powder, loaves of excellent meat-stuffed soda bread, and rich duck and chicken casseroles. There’s a string of inexpensive Muslim duck restaurants on Huashan Nan Lu, southeast of Cuihu Park, but by far the best place to look for a feed is around Cuihu Park itself, especially along Wenlin Jie and Wenhua Xiang. Indian, Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Thai and Western food can all be found here, as can a decent cup of coffee, in laidback surroundings.

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