Gulangyu Islet was Xiamen’s foreign concession until World War II, and remains more-or-less architecturally intact. In summer and at weekends, the island is packed with tour groups, but the atmosphere remains generally restful – battery-powered golf-buggies, for example, are the only vehicles allowed here. The narrow tangle of streets can be confusing, but the island’s size (it’s less than two square kilometres) means you can’t go very far wrong. Though it’s not worth walking a complete circuit – the northwest is exposed and empty – a stroll through the streets will uncover plenty of attractions, especially along Fuzhou Lu (福州路, fúzhōulù) and Guxin Lu (鼓新路, gŭxīnlù), overhung with flowers and blossom throughout the year.

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