In the late afternoon, hundreds of tourists make the trek up the steep, badly eroded, rock-hewn steps of Phnom Bakheng to watch the sun set over Angkor Wat. If you don’t want to walk, between 3 and 5pm elephants wait at the foot of the hill to ferry visitors up via a roundabout track ($20); downhill trips ($15) run between 5 and 6pm. The best time to see Phnom Bakheng itself though is in the early to mid-morning (which is not a bad time for the view either); it’s likely you’ll have the temple to yourself, with just a couple of grazing elephants for company, though you’ll have to walk up under your own steam.

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