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The beaches in Kep aren’t up to much; slim stretches of dark sand that don’t lend themselves to lounging. Luckily, Koh Tonsay has the answer. Rabbit Island, as it is better known, is a 40-minute journey from the mainland and is, for now at least, an undeveloped paradise of pale sand, clear waters, lofty palms and a few very basic bungalows. Just 8km in circumference, you can find stretches of beach around the south western side that remove you even further from the sparse crowds that turn up on the island’s shore every day in search of some desert island action. It makes a great day out, but by far the best time to be here is at 4.15pm when the final day-tripper boat has disappeared behind the peninsula, in the direction of the mainland, and you are left behind with a few other shipwrecked souls, a cold beer and the sun heading gently for the horizon.

Four or five small businesses run basic bungalows for between $5–7, the best at the time of writing being those at the western end of the beach.

The boat journey over here should cost you no more than $7. Some operators will offer you lunch, guided walks and snorkelling for a few dollars more, but this is not recommended as too many travellers tell tales of errant guides and rumbling stomachs. The snorkelling isn’t up to much anyway and it’s best to do the exploring yourself – there’s a rocky path that circumnavigates the island – or better yet, just find yourself an empty strip of sand and while away a day in paradise.

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