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SEN MONOROM is still little more than a large village with its houses spread sparsely over a couple of kilometres, culminating in a cluster of buildings around the market in the centre of town. You can set off on foot in any direction and soon be in unspoilt and isolated countryside, though there are only a limited number of tracks.

The two lakes close to town are pleasant for an early morning or late afternoon stroll, while 2km northeast from town, is the sacred mountain, Phnom Dosh Kramom (known as Youk Srosh Phlom to the Phnong), a small hill with a meditation pagoda, from which there are splendid views. Keep going for a further 5km or so on the same road, then turn off right along a track and you’ll come to oddly named Sea Forest (follow the signs); if you’re lucky you’ll have the area to yourself and be able to gaze wistfully into the misty distance where the majestic trees of the remaining jungle meet the sky. Look at it from upside down – legs astride with your head between them – and you can see why the forest got its name, for indeed it does seem that you’re all at sea.

 

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