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West of Nakuru

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West of Nakuru, the A104 is a busy, often dangerous highway along which lorries, buses and matatus thunder at top speed over a surface which varies, unpredictably, from perfect to perfectly awful and which has been the subject of a massive resurfacing and road-building operation in recent years. It’s hair-raising if you’re driving yourself or with a driver, and even more wearing on the nerves if you’re travelling by public transport.

Heading into Western Kenya, the C56 offers a scenic and much quieter alternative to the main highway, climbing gradually up to the towns of Njoro, Elburgon and Molo, in ascending order of altitude and size. This is a gentle land of small towns, colonial manors and conifers, and although most travellers see nothing more of it than the road to Kericho, the area offers some of the most charming accommodation in the region, and is well worth a stopover.

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