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Before Alamein we never had a victory. After Alamein we never had a defeat.

Winston Churchill, The Hinge of Fate

The utterly misnamed “city” of EL-ALAMEIN squats on a dusty plain 106km west of Alexandria, situated along a spur road that turns inland from the highway. Anyone driving past could blink and see nothing except construction debris until they pass the Italian war memorial 9km down the highway. Still, El-Alamein (“Two Worlds” or “Two Flags”) is an apt name for a place that witnessed the turning point of the North African campaign, determining the fate of Egypt and Britain’s empire. When the Afrika Korps came within 111km of Alexandria on July 1, 1942, control of Egypt, Middle Eastern oil and the Canal route to India seemed about to be wrested from the Allied powers by Germany and Italy. Instead, at El-Alamein, the Allied Eighth Army held, and then drove the Axis forces back, to ultimate defeat in Tunisia. Some eleven thousand soldiers were killed and seventy thousand wounded at El-Alamein alone; total casualties for the North African campaign (Sept 1940–March 1943) exceeded one hundred thousand.

Travellers who wish to pay their respects to the dead or have an interest in military history should find the memorials and war museum worth the effort of getting there. While you can be sure of finding the cemeteries open, it’s worth phoning ahead to check about the museum (t 046 410 0021), as it closes now and again for some reason or another.

The Allied memorials and cemetery

Beyond the checkpoint where Sharia al-Petrol turns off towards the Qattara Depression, look out for signs by the highway, indicating Allied war memorials. The first is the Greek Memorial, resembling a classical temple, approached by an avenue of oleanders, followed 600m later by the South African Memorial, whose inscription (“South Africans outspanned and fought here during their trek from Italian Somaliland to Germany 1939–1945”) evokes the Boer Voortrekkers.

Another kilometre west is the entrance to the El-Alamein War Cemetery (daily 9am–4pm; free), 400m off the highway. Secluded on the reverse slope of a hill, it is a tranquil site for the graves of 7367 Allied soldiers (815 of them nameless, only “known unto God”), with memorial cloisters listing the names of 11,945 others whose bodies were never found. Though over half were Britons, the dead include Australians, New Zealanders, Indians, Malays, Melanesians, Africans, Canadians, French, Greeks and Poles. If you want to find a particular headstone, the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (w cwgc.org) in London can tell you exactly where to look.

Walking down to the cemetery, you’ll pass the Australian Memorial, honouring the 9th Australian Division that stormed Point 29 and Thompson’s Post during the penultimate phase of the Third Battle. At the start of the Third Battle the area now occupied by the cemetery was a staging area for Allied forces; the front line was about 12km west, running 65km inland from where the Italian Memorial stands today to the edge of the Qattara Depression, which formed an impassable obstacle to tanks.

The War Museum

Allied troops reached their staging areas by what is now a minor road, running further inland from today’s highway, past El-Alamein’s War Museum (locally known as Al-Mathaf). An illuminated map showing each phase of the battle, and an Italian documentary, provide an overview of the conflict, while uniforms, photos and models convey the harsh conditions in the field. Notice the section on Almássy, of The English Patient and his role in guiding two German spies through the desert.

Outside are armoured vehicles, cannons and trucks, including a lorry belonging to the Long Range Desert Group found in the desert in 1991. There’s also a restored Command Bunker that was used by Monty during the battle, which you’ll have to ask a guide to unlock.

The Axis memorials

Roughly 2km west, look out for an Italian plaque on the south side of the highway, marking the furthest point of the Axis advance, which asserts: Mancò la Fortuna, Non il Valore (“Lacking Fortune, Not Valour”), 1.7.1942, Alessandria 111km. The Allies denigrated the Italians as cowardly buffoons whose officers enjoyed field-brothels at the front, but many of their units fought bravely and endured the same hardships as the other combatants.

Three kilometres on you’ll spot the German Memorial atop Tell el-Issa, a ridge overlooking the sea north of the highway. A squat octagonal structure modelled on the Castel del Monte in Apulia, its courtyard lies over a mass grave of 4280 soldiers, whose names are recorded on plaques beside stone sarcophagi, representing their home provinces. The memorial’s custodian can open a gate leading to the German Memorial Beach, 1km away – one of the nicest, most deserted beaches on the coast.

The Italian Memorial, 5km west, is also visible from the highway. A white marble tower at the end of an oleander-lined avenue, it has a small museum and a chapel dedicated to the 42,800 Italian soldiers, sailors and airmen who died during the campaign. Only 4,800 bodies were recovered, due to the efforts of Colonel Paolo Dominioni, who spent ten years and his entire fortune scouring the desert and building the memorial. The surrounding area is still mined, so don’t stray off the paths.

The battlefield

The battlefield itself is generally far too dangerous to explore, due to the minefields laid by both sides. A staggering sixteen million landmines are estimated to remain in the Western Desert, which still kill and maim local Bedouin to this day (only tracts of land where companies are drilling for oil have been de-mined). Britain, Germany and Italy have always rejected Egyptian and Libyan demands that they fund mine-clearance programmes – the current excuse is that Egypt hasn’t signed up to the Ottawa Convention banning the manufacture of mines.

A few local Bedouin with 4WDs are prepared to take people to strategic strongpoints such as Kidney Ridge (which the 51st Highland Division was disconcerted to find was actually a depression, leaving them exposed to enemy fire) via known routes through the minefields. To enter this area requires permission from the Egyptian army, without which visitors have no right to assistance in the event of an accident, and can be fined if caught by a patrol.

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